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JEWELRY EDUCATION

The Importance of Diamond Shapes:
A Comprehensive Guide

Princess cut diamond held by tweezers

When it comes to shopping for a diamond, you’ll often hear of the 4Cs – carat, clarity, cut, and color. While each of these attributes plays an undeniable role in determining the value and aesthetic of the stone, there is also another thing to consider that plays an even larger role in setting the foundation for the overall look of your piece – the stone’s shape.

In this article, we’ll take a closer look into some popular diamond shapes to help give you an idea of what to consider to help you make an informed decision the next time you’re shopping for a diamond piece or a loose stone.

The Round Brilliant:

Round shape illustration

The round brilliant is the most iconic and popular diamond shape by far. When holding all other characteristics constant, this classic shape has a higher brilliance, scintillation, and fire when compared to stones of other shapes. Furthermore, with this maximal amount of brilliance, this shape is excellent at hiding any imperfections and blemishes present.

Having a circular design, the round brilliant is a great choice for daily wear. Without sharp edges or corners, this stone is less likely to get caught on fabrics or nicked on hard surfaces. Furthermore, its classic design is incredibly versatile, and can be set in a myriad of ways on a given piece of jewelry.

Known for its durability, versatility, and unmatched brilliance, the round brilliant is a top choice for engagement rings, pendants, earrings, and other jewelry types alike.

Fancy Shaped Diamonds

While on your diamond journey, you’ll be sure to encounter the term “fancy-shaped diamonds”. Fancy-shaped diamonds refer to all diamond shapes other than the round brilliant. These shapes offer excellent alternatives to the classic round brilliant, bringing with them new takes on designs and aesthetics.

This all being said, note that the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) doesn’t assign cut grades to fancy-shaped diamonds, only a polish and symmetry grade. Nevertheless, when choosing a fancy-shaped diamond it’s still important to assess its cut and proportions since these elements play a huge role in the overall look of the stone.

Below we’ll go over some of the most popular fancy-shaped diamonds to highlight their properties and individual characteristics.

Princess Shape Diamond Illustration

Princess Shape

The princess shape is the second most popular shape after the round brilliant. The shape is characterized by a square form with sharp, distinct edges and corners that give it a sleek, modern look. The unique faceting that this shape has gives a level of brilliance, fire, and scintillation that closely rivals the round brilliant’s.

With the regal looks of this design, it’s commonly thought to have originated from royalty or from classical times. Surprisingly though, it was actually invented relatively recently in the 1960s, by a London-based diamond cutter, Aprad Nagy.

Cushion Shape Diamond Illustration

Cushion Shape

Appropriately named, a cushion shaped diamond resembles the form of a pillow with its square design and rounded corners.

Because of the way its facets are positioned, cushion shaped diamonds often have the highest fire when compared to other fancy shapes.

Leaning on the vintage side of aesthetics, this shape gives a great option for those who want a piece with romantic charm.

As opposed to the similarly shaped princess cut diamond, this shape’s rounded edges make it more durable and less likely to be caught or nicked.

Emerald Shape Diamond Illustration

Emerald Shape

The emerald shape was initially used back in the 16th century as the shape design for emeralds, and has since been applied to be used with diamonds.

The Emerald design is rectangular and is characterized by its long stepped facets along its side. With these facets, the shine of an emerald-shaped diamond is unique in that it produces a particular sparkle with a “hall of mirrors” effect that isn’t present in other traditional stones.

With a large, open front-facing table, diamond clarity is of particular importance with this cut, so it’s important to choose one with a grade that’s up to par.

Oval Shape Diamond Illustration

Oval Shape

The oval shaped diamond is an excellent option for those who admire the classic look and brilliance of the round brilliant, but would rather have something with a longer taper.

This shape is particularly attractive due it its ability to appear larger than other stones with the same carat weight, and for its ability to hide blemishes and inclusions with its strong brilliance. Additionally, with its tapered design, it does make the wearer’s fingers look longer and slender – making it a popular choice among many.

One thing to note about diamonds with elongated shapes – like the oval – is that they all to a degree exhibit something known as the bowtie effect – essentially a dark band that crosses the center of the diamond. This effect is caused by a facet arrangement that is needed in elongated shapes; this particular arrangements lead to light loss, leading to the dark band. Other shapes like the Marquise and Pear also have this effect.

With this in mind, when choosing an oval shaped diamond it’s important to ensure its symmetry and cut are up to par, as this can minimize the effect and ensure an even degree of brilliance throughout the stone.

Marquise Shape Diamond Illustration

Marquise Shape

The marquise shape is distinct: it’s characterized by an elongated curved body with pointed ends. This shape has roots going back to the royalty in France – where it was actually commissioned by King Louis XV to resemble the smile of his lover – Marquise de Pompadour.

The marquise’s elongated shape makes it look larger than other stones of the same carat weight. In fact, this shape in particular is known to make the most use of a given carat, making it an excellent choice for those who want to maximize the visual impact of their diamond. Similarly, though, it also presents the bow-tie effect, so choosing a stone with an excellent cut is important.

One of the more visually unique-looking shapes, the marquise is an excellent choice for those who are looking for something a little more unique, but with a royal appearance.

Pear Shape Diamond Illustration

Pear Shape

The pear shape combines the best features of both the round and marquise shapes. It is characterized by a rounded end that tapers to a single point, resembling that of a teardrop.

It’s a unique choice that offers an excellent degree of brilliance, and looks stunning on pendants, earrings, and rings alike. Like with the oval and marquise shapes, this shape is susceptible to having the bowtie effect, so choosing a well-cut stone is important.

A particular advantage of this stone is that it can be set so that its point faces up or down, allowing for versatility in the look the wearer is aiming for.

Asscher Shape Diamond Illustration

Asscher Shape

Similar to the emerald shape, the Asscher shape features stepped facets along its side, except it’s square rather than rectangular. Like with the emerald shape, the stepped facets of an Asscher diamond give the stone a unique shine and a “hall of mirrors” effect that isn’t seen in other traditional shapes.

When choosing an Asscher shaped diamond, clarity and symmetry are important. With a large open table, small blemishes and imperfections may appear to be more apparent. Furthermore, with a squared form factor, slight deviances in symmetry can be easily detected to make the stone look imbalanced.

Developed in the early 1900s, the Asscher cut is a great choice for those who want something with vintage charm, but with modern elegance and a unique look.

Radiant Shape Diamond Illustration

Radiant Shape

The radiant-shaped diamond is characterized by a square or rectangular form with cropped corners.

This shape was invented in the 1970s by the master diamond cutter Henry Grossbard. He wanted to create a shape with a brilliance that was similar to that of the round brilliant, but with a rectangular form – hence the radiant was born.

The radiant shape features one of the highest levels of brilliance, fire, and scintillation among all diamond shapes after the round brilliant and princess. As such, it also hides blemishes and inclusions quite well. This shape is an excellent alternative for those who want a light profile similar to that of the round brilliant but with a different aesthetic.

Heart Shape Diamond Illustration

Heart Shape

Instantly recognizable, this shape is perhaps the most romantic of all resembling that of a heart. The heart-shaped diamond is a popular choice among those who are looking for a special piece with a special sentiment.

With this shape, symmetry is absolutely crucial. A subpar cut can lead to the stone being lopsided and asymmetrical.

That said, when cut correctly, this shape has exceptional brilliance, and proves to be a timeless choice for those who want to have or want to give something special.

Choosing the Right Shape

Whether you’re looking for something with the timeless appeal of the round brilliant, or for something with the modern allure of a fancy shape, a diamond’s shape along with the 4Cs is something to carefully consider.

If you’re in the market for a diamond piece, we warmly invite you to our showroom in Chestnut Hill to see how we can help. As experts in custom design, we’ve worked with and sourced all different types of diamonds. With over 30 years of experience in the industry, we take pride in our white glove service and world-class craftsmanship. Come in for a complimentary consultation and see why we’ve been Boston’s preferred jeweler for over 30 years.