JEWELRY EDUCATION
The Anatomy of a Diamond
Jewelry Professionals, as a product of years of dedication to the diamond, have fashioned a criterion known as the 4Cs – cut, colour, clarity, and carat – to help judge the visual appeal and value of a given stone Along with this criterion, a myriad of different definitions and terminology has been created to further distill the study of diamonds into its very own science.
As a product of this science, the jewelry industry has come up with a taxonomy to describe the anatomy and structure of a finished diamond. We’ve written this article to help familiarize you with the different aspects of diamond anatomy so that when you choose your next stone, you can make an informed decision.
You may know that there are different diamond shapes to choose from. With this in mind, there are parts of each design that are almost universally present in all. For ease of understanding, in this article, we will be focusing solely on the anatomy of the round brilliant shape – which due to its maximal brilliance and timeless design, is by far the most popular shape of all.
Understanding the Anatomy of a Diamond
There are many parts to a diamond’s anatomy with some belonging to all, regardless of shape. Each part is precisely cut with intent, making the craftsman a key deciding element in how a given diamond captures and reflects light. The following are the main constituents of a round brilliant diamond’s anatomy:
Facets:
Facets describe all of the flat, polished surfaces on the diamond that allow it to absorb and reflect light.
Along with the design, one differentiating factor between the various diamond shapes is the number of facets, with the classic round brilliant possessing 57 or 58.
What denotes 57 or 58 facets is the presence of a culet or a flat facet at the bottom of the stone.
Generally speaking, if a diamond is well-cut, its facets are angled in a way that optimizes the stone’s brilliance, scintillation, and fire as each facet acts as a mirror reflecting light.
Table:
The table refers to the topmost facet seen when the stone is viewed face up. Being the largest facet, the table is where the most amount of light enters the stone. An expertly cut table allows a high degree of efficiency for light usage – meaning that almost all of the light that enters it is refracted and reflected throughout the stone successfully, leading to a high degree of brilliance.
Crown:
The crown of the diamond is the portion that extends from girdle to table. Specifically for the round brilliant diamond, the crown is comprised of various facet types – namely the star, bezel, and upper girdle facets. Working together with the crown’s height and angle, these multiple facets disperse light in many directions to showcase the diamond’s colorful fire.
Girdle:
The girdle, separating the crown from the pavilion, is the outer edge of the diamond. Forming the circumference, the girdle forms the widest part of the stone.
Although this facet can vary in thickness, its structure itself doesn’t play a large role in determining the brilliance of the finished diamond.
It does however, play a large role in the stone’s durability Girdles too thin can make the diamond delicate and prone to chipping, and girdles too thick can be a waste of a diamond’s carat weight, which can result in a diamond appearing smaller than another of the same weight with a more appropriately cut girdle.
Pavillion:
The pavilion forms the bottom portion of the stone from the girdle to the culet and is responsible for the round brilliant’s signature “inverted cone” shape. This section is crucial for efficiently reflecting light back at the viewer. If the diamond is cut too shallow or too deep, then light can seep out through the pavilion instead of being directed back through to the table – leading to an overall duller look with less brilliance. It’s for this reason that having a diamond with an appropriate pavilion depth and angle is important.
Culet:
The culet is the bottom facet of a diamond located where the pavlion facets converge. Note that the presence of a culet contributes to a round brilliant’s facet count, giving a total of 58 facets. If no culet is present, the stone is classified as having 57 facets.
Generally speaking, the presence of a culet is to add durability to the bottom of a diamond, since small points can be prone to chipping. That said, a smaller culet is generally more desirable since it minimizes the amount of light leakage from the bottom of the stone, which can enhance the diamond’s overall brilliance.
With regards to the grading criteria of the GIA, the smaller the culet, the better, with the highest quality diamonds often having culet sizes of “None”.
Note that when the culet is too large, a small dark circle can be seen when viewing the diamond through the table.
Integrating Insights: A Diamond’s Cut and Anatomy
To get the visual elegance and beauty we expect from diamonds, the different parts of a stone must be cut and arranged to optimize its light usage. Each facet must be carved with precision to ensure that almost all light is reflected back through the table, leading to a high degree of brilliance, fire, and scintillation.
Along with understanding the 4Cs, having a basic understanding of a diamond’s anatomy and the purpose behind each part can help you to make informed decisions when selecting your next stone. Making decisions with confidence is key to enjoying your diamond for years to come.
In the end, it’s easy to get caught up in the science of diamonds, along with their terms, definitions, and criteria. This is where we can help.
At Kosmima, we have been helping our clients select their perfect diamond stones for over 40 years. As a local business, we specialize in giving a world-class, white-glove level of service that will make your jewelry experience as seamless as possible. We invite you to our showroom in Boston to discover the mastery and expertise that has made us the preferred jewelers for Bostononians for over 40 years. Stop by today for a complimentary consultation.
